Tuesday 5 June 2012 - Mataranka
Only a short trip today, about 170km, from Daly Waters to Mataranka. We checked in to The Manor Caravan Park, had a quick bite of lunch, and then headed up to their pond/billabong for the barra feeding. Georgia was game enough to enter the water and hand feed the pet barra, but the barra were very sluggish from the cold snap we'd had and were very reluctant to feed. After about 10 mins Georgia finally tempted one, much to her delight.
Georgia feeding the pet barra at The Manor
Following a stop at the shops on the way home, we decided to check out Bitter Springs, another thermal pool/creek, just down the road from our van park. Different to the other pool, this spot had a definite current running down the creek, and the idea was to drift down with the current and then walk back up a path for another shot. Sue and I gave it a miss here and let the kids take a drift. We carried their thongs and towels down to the exit point. They had a ball, and even spotted a tortoise along the way.
Drifting kids at Bitter Springs
Wednesday 6 June 2012 - Katherine
After only another 105km we arrived in Katherine and found our way to our 'regular' van park, on the road out of town towards WA. While setting up, the girls met Misha, a small poodle, only slightly bigger than our Zac. Her owners Don and Marta were nice and the inevitable 'havachat' ensued. They were travelling in a large bus and towing a small 4WD on a trailer. Don had the tri-axle trailer in the shop getting some mods done. He'd picked it up as a bargain in Derby and traded it for his old twin axle along with a few extra bucks. He was keen to design up a system to carry a trailer and tinnie over the top of the 4WD, and after sussing out that I was a drafty, asked me to take a look at it and offer some advice. That would have to wait though as we had plenty to do in Katherine first, in other words shopping, repairs and a few other chores.
After a bit of lunch, we hit the shops and put Kelsey's flat bike tyres in for repair at Katherine Rod & Rifle, which coincidentally, is the best tackle shop in town, and somewhere I just had to go anyway. It was going to cost $40 for both, which was pricey, but good insurance for what they do. Due to the multitude of thorns, spikes and other sharp nasties up this way, the tip is to fit special extra thick tubes and line the inside the tyres with the old punctured tubes, thus rendering the repaired tyre virtually puncture-proof. We decided to give Georgia's the same treatment, even though they were still going strong.
Other shopping included a few groceries and the obligatory top-up of the dwindling grog supplies. Then it was back for happy hour and dinner.
Thursday 7 June 2012 - Katherine
After a bit of work on the last blog post, I took the run down to the workshop with Don & Marta to check out the trailer. It was a ripper trailer with lots of extra goodies to make Don's plans very easy, including an electric winch mounted on the drawbar. Half an hour later, and with the help of the workshop boss, we had come up with a good plan. All it needed now was a few hours labour, and a good cash injection from Don.
We hit the shops again after lunch to get Georgia's tyres done and pick up a few extra groceries, etc. Also on the agenda, and long overdue, was a haircut for yours truly. Years ago, just before entering the Kimberley for an extended off road trip, I let Sue loose with the No.2 comb on the clippers. She had a ball and soon reduced the mullet to a low maintenance wasteland. This time I wasn't game to let her near it, and couldn't part with the mullet completely, so we found a hairdresser instead. Out came the No.2 once more, only this time I saved a bit of mullet for later. Georgia and Kelsey love "The Rat" (rat's tail), but for some strange reason Sue's not that fond of it. I'll guess it'll just take a bit of time and she'll want to play with it too. And another plus, there's still a bit of pepper left amongst all the salt my darling Daddy so lovingly bestowed upon me with his genes. So yes . . . I'm still fighting off the ladies with a stick.
Friday 8 June 2012 - Goymarr Tourist Park (just outside the southern entrance to Kakadu National park)
We had originally planned to travel into Kakadu today and stay at Gunlom Falls for a couple of days, but after enquiring about the condition of the dirt access road while buying our Kakadu permits, we decided the smart move was to stay where we were at Goymarr and just make a day (afternoon) trip of it. Just as well too, as the road was a shocker. Rough enough to snap off one of the brackets that retains the rear wheel carrier arm on the Cruiser. A bit of rope soon got us underway again and we enjoyed a great arvo hiking to the top of the falls (croc-safe up there) and swimming in the very refreshing top pools. An uneventful, but very corrugated trip home was followed by the mandatory coldie to wash down the dust.
At the bottom pool below Gunlom Falls before our climb to the top.
Working up the courage to enter the chilly water of the top pools.
Once in it was beautiful, and with a backdrop to match.
Saturday 9 June 2012 - Cooinda
Again we hadn't planned on staying at Cooinda, as Jabiru was the goal, but a last minute decision had us setting up camp for the next few days. And finally the day had arrived to take the tinnie off the roof for the first time and get it's bum wet.
Here we would fish Yellow Water, probably Australia's most beautiful billabong. The wildlife is abundant and stunning, with heaps of different birds to see, and of course the first chance of a crocodile sighting in the wild for the girls. Though I don't think they were as keen on that as we were for them to experience it.
My first time setting up the tinnie in anger took a lot longer than I expected, as I had to try and remember where I'd stashed things in the mad rush to leave Brisbane. Sue and the girls checked out the park and enjoyed a cool swim in the 'new pool' (since our last stay in the late 90's anyway), while I toiled in the heat.
The coldies hardly touched the side that happy hour.
Sunday 10 June 2012 - Cooinda
Our first trip on the water was not to be without a few hassles. The rangers were yet to open the main (only) boat ramp into Yellow Water to the public. This meant we had to launch into Home Billabong behind the resort/van park and negotiate a very narrow and extremely shallow channel/drain to get into Yellow Water proper. At only about 30cm deep in parts and about 2m wide at the narrowest, it was exciting to say the least. Sue was pretty apprehensive, but the kids enjoyed it and finally came the time to wet a line.
We trolled the main arm of the billabong with shallow divers for about the next 4-5 hours, with a few brief sessions casting to the bankside snags thrown in. For our efforts we were rewarded with only one fish, a 42cm barra to Sue. It made for a great deal of excitement again for the kids and helped keep them keen for one of their own. Of course along the way they found plenty of time to count crocs and tallied 13 for the day. Not a bad effort, as Yellow Water is not a large waterway at only about 1-2 km long. The biggest croc, around the 4m mark, sunned himself in the same spot all day, only moving once to open his mouth for a spell.
4m of yawning saltie.
There was plenty to look at all day. We saw sea eagles, whistling kites, jabiru, whistling ducks, burdekin ducks, great heron, rufus night heron, darters, cormorants, magpie geese, jacana, azure kingfishers and plenty more whose names I don't know. The other feature is of course the surrounding wet lands, paperbark swamps, acres of lotus lillies, pandanus and grasslands. Magic country for sure, very hard to beat.
Monday 11 June 2012 - Cooinda
Day 2 saw a change of venue. We decided to venture into another billabong we'd never tried before. Mardugal Billabong is only about 10km from Cooinda and has the advantage of being linked to Jim Jim Billabong by a beautiful stretch of 'creek'. One of the rangers had told us about this, so we just had to give it a crack.
Both billabongs were beautiful, but very different to Yellow Water. Without the adjacent wetlands, they were more heavily wooded to the banks, with only the occasional patches of lillies to break the constant stream of pandanus and other growth. They weren't as kind to us on the fish front either, with neither yielding a barra for our efforts. The only action came as I cast a weedless frog lure across the top of one section of lillies. A medium sized saratoga got the blood pumping as he hammered the frog in a wild surface strike but failed to hook up.
Tuesday 12 June 2012 - Cooinda
This morning Georgia and I decided that a dawn assault was the way to get something happening on the fish-front. We made the run through the shallow drain into Yellow Water again, with mist rising off the warm water in the cool morning air. Half way through, we literally ran over the tail of a 2-3m croc as he lay across the side of the drain. He didn't move a muscle as we cruised past, only metres from his head.
Unfortunately we couldn't appease the fish gods anymore than on the first day, with only one barra coming our way. But it was due to the immense angling skill of my 9 year old daughter that we even boated it at all. She chose the lure, had the rod in her hands when the fish struck and fought the leaping fish to the boat, all on her own, before the old man slid the net under it. And you reckon she wasn't happy. You couldn't have wiped the smile off her face with a 9 inch grinder. Sadly it only went 46cm. Better than Mum's, but still well short of the 55cm minimum legal length. But she was still grinning like a mad thing as I slipped it back in the water, so I don't think it really mattered that much.
Georgia's first barra - 46cm.
After catching 'all' the fish, George was ready to skipper the vessel.
Returning to camp, the champion angler couldn't wait to share her account of the battle with the rampaging barra with the rest of the crew. And after mother & sister were regaled with all the details of the epic conquest, an email, complete with photos, was sent to grandpa (my Dad) to brag about the event. For those who didn't already know, my Dad, much to his disappointment, is still a barra virgin, and the effects of that email may need to be followed up with a few therapy sessions if the truth be known. The ensuing phone call from the bragging brat probably didn't help matters either.
I spent the rest of the arvo packing up the tinnie and other gear for a move the next day into Jabiru.
Wednesday 13 June 2012 - Jabiru
After only 50km or so we pulled into Jabiru and set up at the large van park. There only used to be one here, but a new smaller one has popped up since our last visit.
I finished setting up the tinnie again just after lunch and then we went into town to stock up on supplies and check for forwarded mail at the post office.
Happy hour was had, as was dinner, before an early night.
Thursday 14 June 2012 - Jabiru
Our first stop this morning, after the post office, was at the Bowali Visitor's Centre just outside Jabiru. The kids enjoyed finding all the creatures listed on a special set of cards, given to them by the staff, as we walked through the many interactive displays and storyboards inside. They learned a lot about all the different animals, birds and fish that call Kakadu home.
Next stop was Nourlangie Rock, for a walk along the tracks that take you past the many rock art galleries. Storyboards along the way explained the meaning of the aboriginal artwork dating back tens of thousands of years. The kids enjoyed trying to identify all the different animals, birds and fish in the paintings.
Viewing paintings at Nourlangie Rock
After a bit of relaxation back at the van, we headed off to Ubirr for another dose of rock art and to enjoy the view from the top of the rock across the floodplains at sunset. But, as is the case with many of our plans, we changed our minds along the way. We had planned to throw a few lures at Cahill's Crossing on the East Alligator River before going to Ubirr afterwards. Cahill's Crossing is the man-made crossing between Kakadu and Arnhem Land. Crocs have taken people at this crossing in the past, so we were well aware of the dangers and took the necessary precautions, staying well back from the water's edge. Unfortunately (???), when we got there, the barra were on and the bug bit, so Ubirr got the flick in favour of the fishing.
We probaby fished for an hour and a half before packing it in as dark approached. Only I was lucky enough to catch one, just a small fella of about 35cm, but we saw many others caught by other anglers. Just the one keeper among them, around the 65cm mark. We drove home in the dark amidst a hail of bugs.
Friday 15 June 2012 - Jabiru
This morning we dedicated to schoolwork for the girls and a few chores around home. We also ran into town again to check for mail.
Around 3.30pm we left again for Ubirr and this time we got to see the rock art. There was a lot more to see at Ubirr than Nourlangie Rock and the detail of the paintings was a lot better too. The amount of barramundi paintings we saw indicated that it has been a good fishing area for a long time. The floodplains were still surprisingly green, but we didn't stay for the sunset, instead we fished the crossing again. The tide was a lot later arriving and as a consequence the fishing wasn't as good by the time we left. No fish for us and again a severe bug blasting on the way home.
Saturday 16 June 2012 - Jabiru
We left at about 9.00am for the South Alligator River today. Upon arrival at the ramp and removal of the boat cover, it was discovered that the brilliant skipper had left the boat keys back at the van. The only solution, after trying every other available key, was to make the 80km return trip to the van and back again to the river. We finally hit the water around 10.00am.
The South Alligator River is a very wide, muddy system and difficult to navigate around the road bridge and downstream, with numerous shallow mudbanks to strand the unwary. We went about 10km upstream to an area where we had caught fish in the past and trolled till around 3.30pm. We weren't expecting champagne fishing, as the South fishes best during the run-off following the Wet. The day's tally was a big, fat zero without even as much as a strike to our name. A couple of snagged lures were the only real excitement. During the course of the day the girls counted 72 crocodiles up to 4.5m long.
As we were retrieving the tinnie at the ramp another boat pulled in with a couple of anglers who had made the 75km run to the mouth of the river. They'd fished creeks with lures and caught around 50 fish. They kept 2 barra and were generous enough to offer us one, an 80cm fish, which we gratefully accepted.
Our charity barra at the South Alligator ramp with our generous benefactors in the background.
We used up the rest of the afternoon with a swim and happy hour.
Sunday 17 June 2012 - Jabiru
Today was taken up with postcard writing for the girls, schoolwork, packing up the boat and a late afternoon swim.
We had our first feed of fresh saltie barra that night and it was sensational.
Monday 18 June 2012 - Corroboree Park Tavern
We left Jabiru, and Kakadu, and stopped at The Bark Hut Inn to check out souvenirs and the caravan park. The park looked really nice but we had decided to stay at Corroboree Park Tavern as it was closer to Corroboree Lagoon where we intended to fish over the next few days. We bought a few goodies at the gift shop and got to the tavern at around lunchtime.
Leaving Kakadu, on our way to Corroboree Park Tavern.
I spent the afternoon setting up the tinnie while Sue and the girls had a swim and explored the park. The park dog, Neville, a border collie/corgie cross (?), befriended the girls as they played with the frisbee. The girls gave him some water and a handball to play with, which he proceeded to destroy. They were best mates all afternoon.
We had our second feed of barra tonight with a serve of chips from the tavern. Again sensational.
Tuesday 19 June 2012 - Corroboree Park Tavern
It was quite cool this morning and we hit Corroboree Lagoon around 10.00am. We watched a charter boat pick up a small barra just opposite the ramp and then motored about 10km down the lagoon to a place where we had previously caught fish. This time however we weren't so lucky. We trolled there and many other places without raising a scale. We later heard that the charter boats hadn't done much better, with no large fish being caught. We must have seen about 8 charter boats carrying up to 4 anglers each. At $300 per head there must have been a few disappointed punters making the 1hr trip back to Darwin that aftrenoon.
As we headed back to the ramp, we decided to troll the bank where we had seen the fish caught earlier in the day. Over the next hour we managed to hook up three times without boating any fish. It was Kelsey's turn to catch a barra and she handled the disappointment very well. She's becoming a true fisho. Today's tally of crocs was 21.
After a long, hot day on the water, the pool was very refreshing upon our return. An early dinner was followed with a short walk up to the tavern to catch a country and western singer who had arrived the previous afternoon. He was okay, the bugs weren't, so we retreated to the van for the night.
Wednesday 20 June 2012 - Corroboree Park Tavern
Day 3 at Corroboree Park Tavern started slowly with some forward planning for our Darwin stay. We finally headed off fishing to Hardies Lagoon at about 1.30pm. Unfortunately the directions we were given involved looking for a turnoff 15km down the road. The actual turnoff was only 6km down the road and of course we weren't looking for it. We ended up 25km down the road before we found somewhere to ask for directions, effectively wasting around 40 odd km of petrol and time. When we finally found Hardies we were pleasantly surprised, as it was a beautiful long lagoon with varied bankside scenery and plenty of wildlife. We saw our first freshwater crocodiles in the wild, and plenty of them before we saw a saltie.
Opposite a beautiful area of floodplain teeming with birdlife, Sue took a big hit on her rod and after a very spirited fight landed our first keeper barra of 64cm. Big grins and plenty of excitement.
Sue with her 64cm Hardies Lagoon barra.
It was Kelsey's turn for a fish, but mum took this one over, as it would have been a big ask for Kelsey to land it unassisted.
Kelsey didn't have to wait long though. On the next pass over the same area, Georgia took a big hit on the rod she was holding and immediately passed it over to Kelsey. It was a smaller fish that jumped right next to the boat before I slid the net under it and Kelsey was the proud angler with a 51cm barra to her name. Georgia gave her a big high 5 and we all congratulated her on a great capture. She was rapt.
Kelsey and her first barra, 51cm, and her very proud dad and sister.
Further runs through the area produced nil, so we returned to the ramp watching a beautiful orange sunset through the smoke haze. A fitting end to a successful trip.
Mr Jabiru wished us good evening back at the ramp.
